Hi Pwshk,
I was the CC bod who said cycling can greatly reduce COP.
Cycling is common as most HP systems are over-sized. Also getting a HP system to perform to its potential SCOP is difficult. If your system is rated at an SCOP of 4, be happy if you can get an SCOP of 3 in use.
Your current system is possibly oversized (I don’t know what insulation you have in your house) but, if it is, it’s not enough to make it perform as poorly as yours is.
For comparison I have a 5kW ASHP in a fairly well insulated, detached, 270 year old house with floor area 115 sq metres. Over the last month my energy use has been 6kWh per day. Thus I would reckon your energy use should currently be less than 10kWH per day. So you have a problem.
Generally Mitsubishi HP hardware (designed, and usually built in Japan) is extremely reliable. I would look at the control and monitoring systems . The USA designed Honeywell controller can be problematic and the UK monitoring software can be poor . I am assuming you have a Honeywell controller, but I am not familiar with Mitsubishi A2A HP controllers.
However I am familiar with early versions of MELCloud - awful software. My MELCLoud system was wildly inaccurate when first installed and I had a long running correspondence with the UK designers of the system, pointing out inherent problems in the software. Annoyingly is based on a previous system that worked well. So it collects useful data that you can’t use!
Solutions?
- Ask Trystan Lea to instal one of his excellent monitoring systems, then you will know what your system is doing.
- You can stop the system cycling by running it “by the clock”, rather than “on the thermostat”.
My system is currently set to run for two 3 hour sessions per day - when running it averages 1kWhr per hour, 6 kWhr per day total.
Thus I suggest you set the thermostat to a high temperature ( 25 degrees?) so that it doesn’t operate. Find out how long it takes for your HP to achieve a reasonable room temperature, after it is turned on, and set the controller to turn it on at appropriate times, and for it to stay on (2, 3, or 4 hours?) until the house is warm. E.g. in the morning, so it is warm when you get up, and in the afternoon when the HP will run most efficiently as the air is warm outside. Fortunately you have an old house with tons of brickwork in it, so, with your thermal inertia, the temperature will only fall a little when the HP is not on. You may need 3 or more heating sessions during the day when the weather gets colder. With a good HP monitor you can see clearly when your HP is achieving a high COP, and you can adjust the system accordingly.
I hope the above is useful for you. If it is, I would like your help.
I want to learn more about how A2A systems perform, as they are new to the UK, and appear to have potential as a cost effective retrofit solution.
Could you give me a detailed account of your system?
Costs for installation and in use , performance, convenience, problems etc?
Would you be prepared to present the details at a CC HP webinar?
Best Wishes. Andy Hamilton