Compression Tape on New Windows - Should I Insist?

Thanks Russell,

sounds like a good foam to use for example for pipe holes that need to be closed. I have multiple holes in the kitchen extension where the builders or plumbers have put the dishwasher washing machine and sink drains through the wall individually. Is it better to use a foam or should I actually close it with brick to restore the envelope and put some sort of insulation in the cavity?

Anyway, seems like a good product and can you recommend some air tightness tape? When would I need a vapour permeable tape? Any suggestions? Thanks

The insulation properties of this type of foam, all be it ok, they do not beat the continuity of a proper insulated wall. But i use it around all service penetrations along with tapes, and after removing smaller pipes, cables etc. Its not super cheap so wouldnt wanting to be pumping into open cavities!!!

Theres several brands, each have different models, of thickness, plasterable , non plasterable, water proof etc.

Proclima and Siga do tapes and mebrane, i have used both.

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I used ISO-Blocco One 64/3 (or rather, I persuaded the windows-installation manager to supply the installers with this - it’s a higher-up decision, the actual installers were doing a good job with whatever was supplied to them). Someone on Carbon Coop recommended this, can’t remember who…!
For airtightness tape, on the inside, I used Contega Solido Exo (recommended by John O’Brien, on here.)

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Sounds like this ISO-Blocco One is an all in one expansion tape. Wow. Providing air tightness, insulation and waterproofness externally all in one tape.

Do you then still need the Contega Solida Exo on the inside? (Btw, I think the Exo means it is used for the outer seal, isn’t it?)

Anyway, from the discussions above for a good airtightness and insulation people use 1) a tape on the external frame of the window for water proofing, 2) a compression tape between frame and the wall and then another 3) internal airtightness tape. Does that sound correct?

It is quite an effort and cost and I can see that a normal window fitter wouldn’t use all of these.

Any one of those layers would exceed normal window fitters’ standards, but unfortunately that isn’t saying much.

I would recommend all three layers but if you are doing a staged retrofit you could postpone at least one tape until you are doing other work on that side of the window. Others might not agree but I feel that it reduces the chances of damaging the tapes after they are fitted.

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